化妆品原料功效分类目录 投稿:覃鉷鉸

4. The bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals 4.1 Function List of bioactive ingredients (功能化妆品活性成分的功能表现) In the American-Eu…

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4. The bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals

4.1 Function List of bioactive ingredients (功能化妆品活性成分的功能表现)

In the American-European cosmeceuticals, according to the efficiency of active composition, the all right classification is as follows :

(1)Antacid

Aluminum hydroxide gel Aluminum phosphate Dihydroxy aluminum sodium

carbonate Hydro Talcite

Magnesium hydroxide Magnesium silicate Simethicone

(2)Anti-acne

Benzoyl peroxide

Clays(white,yellow,red,green,pink) Colloidal sulfur Ethyl lactate l-(+)

Ethyl lactate Perfluorodecalin

Pyridoxin dioctenoate Pyridoxine dipalmitate Salicylic acid

(3)Anti-aging

Arginine/lysine polypeptides Arginine PCA

Aspergillus/Aspidesferma quebiacho ferment

Avocado sterols

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) extract Bifida ferment lysate

Calophylum Inorhylum seed oil Camellia sinensis Carrot (Daucus

carota sativa)extract Catalpa kaempfera extract Ceramide 1

Ceramide 33 (liquid soy extract)

Chinesehibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) extract

Chlorella vulgaris extract Corn (Zea mays ) extract Disodium malyl tyrosinate Eugenia jambolana extract Fomes fometarius extract Fomistopsis pinicola extract Ganoderma Jucidum oil

Ginseng (panax ginseng) extract Green tea (Camellia sinensis or C oleifera) extract

Hazel (corylus avellana) nut extract Hyaluronic acid Hydrolyzed elastin

Hydrolyzed serum protein Hydrolyzed soy flour

Isachne pulchella extractJapanese hawthorn (Crataegus cuneata) extract Lactococcus ferment lysate Lactoferrin

Lady’s Thistle (Silybum marianum) extract

Ligusticum jeholense extract Lysine PCA Marine collagen

Milk protein (Lactis proteinum) Mushroom (Coriolus versicolor) extract

Mushroom extract

Musk rose (rosa moschata) oil Oak (Quercus) root extract Wat (Avena sativa) protein Pea (Pisum sativum) extract Perfluorodecalin

Phyllanthus emblica extract (or Emblica officinalis) Placental enzymes

Placental Lipids Placental protein Polysine

Quaternium-51rice Peptides Rubus thunbergii extract Serum protein Soluble collagen Soluble proteoglycan

Soybean (Glycine soja) protein Stenocalyx micalii extract

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) unsaponifiables

Tamarindus indica seed polysaccharide Thymus extract

Tricholoma matsutake extract Wheat protein

Wheat (Triticum vulgare) germ extract Whey protein AHA

Apple (pyrus malus) extract

Apricot (prunus armeniaca) kernel powder

C12-13 alkyl lactate Citric acid

Dimethicone copolyol lactate Ethy lactate Glycolic acid Isosteary lactate Lactic acid L(+)Lactic acid Malic acid Oley lactate

Sodium ascorbate Sodium citrate Sodium lactate Tartaric acid

(4)Anti-inflammatory Arbutin

Arnica Montana extract Bisabolol

Black poplar (Populus nigra) extract Boswellia rapa-depressa extract Calendula officinalis extract Canola oil unsaponifiables Catalpa kaempfera extract Celastrus paniculata extract Ceramide 33 (liquid soy extract) Chaparral (Larrea mexicana) extract Coneflower (Echinacea angustifolia) extract

Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) extract

Comflower (Centaurea cyanus) extract Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate Echium Plantagineum seed oil Euphotorium fortunei extract

Eyebright (Euphrasia offcinalis) extract Ficus racemosa extract

Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice) root extract

Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice) root extract

Golden seal (Hydrastis Canadensis) root extract

Green tea (Camellia sinensis or C oleifera) extract Guaiazulene

Horse chstnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) extract

Jujube (Zizyphus jujuba)extract Laminaria iaponica extract

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) extract Ligusticum jeholense extract Ligustrum lucidum extract

Lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis) extract

Matricaria (Chamomilla recutita) extract Melaleuca uncinata extract Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate Mulberry (Morus nigra ) extract Neem (Melia azadirachta) extract Niacinamide ascorbate Oak (Quercus) root extract

Orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis)peel extract

Orange (Citrus sinensis) flower extract Palmetto extract

Palmitoyl collagen amino acids

Passionflwoer (Passiflora) fruit extract Paulownia imperialis extract Phytosphingosine

Salicylic acid Sea water

Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) Unsaponifiables Silanediol salicylate

Sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan Spent grain wax (Hordeum vulgare) Stearyl glycyrrhetinate Stenocalyx micalii extract Superoxide dismutase

Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) oil Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl nicotinate

Trichomonas japonica extract Turmeric (Curcuma longa) extract Urso lic acid Whey protein

Willow (Salix alba) extract

Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) extract

Withania somniferum extract

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) extract Zine acetylmethionate Zinc-L-Iactate

(5)Anti-irritant

Acetyl monoethanolamine Allantoin

Allantoin acetyl methionine Allantoin glycyrrhetinic acid Arginine

Avocado (Persea gratissima) oil unsaponifiables Azelamide MEA Betaglucan Betaine

Boswellia serrata extract-powder Calendula officinalis extract Coceth-7 carboxylic acid Colloidal oatmeal

Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus )extract Dibutyl adiipate

Diisostearyl dimmer dilinoleate Dipalmitoyl cystine

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate Green tea (Camellia sinensis or C oleifera) extract

Hydrogenated canola oil

Hydrolyzed sweet almond protein Hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin Lauroyl collagen amino acids I- Lysine lauroyl methionine’ Mallow (Malva sylvestris) extract Oat (Avena sativa) extract

Palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein Palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein Palmitoyl keratin amino acids PEG-60 almond glycerides PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate

PEG-30 glyceryl monococoate PEG-28 glyceryl tallowate PEG-82 glyceryl tallowate PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate PEG-12palm kernel glycerides

Pilewort (ranunculus ficaria) extract Propionyl collagen amino acids PVP

Saccharomyces lysate extract Silk amino acids

Sodium lauroamphoacetate

Undecylenoyl collagen amino acids Valerian (valeriana) extract

Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract

(6)Anti-bacterial Aluminum PCA Ammonium iodide

Butylglucoside caprate Caprylic/capric glycerides Chlorhexidine

Chlorhexidine diacetate Chlorhexidine digluconate Chlorhexidine digluconate Chlorhexidine dihydrochloride Chlorphenesin Citral

Copper PCA

Alpha-Glucan-oligosaccharide Hexamidine diisethionate Hexetidine

Lceland moss (Cetraria islandica) etxtract Lactoferrin Lauralkonium bromide Lauralkonium chloride Lauralkonium chloride Laurylpyridinium chloride Leptospermum scoparium oil Mushroom (Cordyceps sabolifera ) extract Orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) peel extract Orange (Citrus sinensis) flower extract PEG- Ebiriko ceramides extract Peppermint (Mentha piperita) extract Philodendron (Phellodendron amurense) extract Pine (Pinus sylvestris) needle extract Polymethoxy bicyclic oxazolidine Quaternium Rubus thunbergii extract Sodium shale oil sulfonate Sodium usnate Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) oil Triclocarban Undecylenic acid Zinc PCA (7)Anti-cellulite Aminophylline Bladderwrack (Fucus vesiculosus) extract Butcherbroom (Ruscus aculeatus) extract Carcinia cambogia extract Cola nitida seed extract “Fomes fometarius extract Fomistopsis pinicola extract Guarana (Paullinia cupana) extract Hydrolyzed zein, iodized Ivy(Hedera helixextract Mushroom (oriolus versicolor) extract Paullinia cupana seed extract TEA-hydroiodide Tricholoma matsutake extract Whey protein (8)Anti-dandruff Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide Balm mint (Melissa officinalis ) exract Burdock (arctium lappa ) extract Burdock (Arctium majus ) root extract Chloroxylenol Climbazole Corydalis ambigua extract Disodium undecylenamido MEA-sulfosuccinate Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ) extract Sodium shale oil sulfonate Stenocalyx micalii extract Undecylenamide DEA Willow (Salix alba) bark extract Willow (salix alba) distillate Willow (salix alba) flower extract Zinc pyrithione (8)Anti-microbial Bezalkonium chloride Benzethonium chloride Benzoic acid

Benzyl alcohol Bromochlorophene

2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol Butylparaben Capryloyl collagen amino acids Capryloyl glycine Capryloyl keratin amino acids Captan Cetethyldimonium bromide Cetyl pyridinium chloride Chlorothymol Chloroxylenol Citral Citron oil Copper PCA

Dichlorobenzyl alcohol

Dilauryldimonium chlorideDomiphen bromide Ethylparaben

Eucalyptrs globules extract

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) extract Garlic (Allium sativum) extract Glyceryl caprylate Glyceryl laurate

Hexamidine diisethionate Hexetidine Hinokitiol

Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) extract Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) extract Leptospermum scoparium oil Lichen (Usnea barbata) extract Methylparaben

Myristalkonium chloride

Orange (citrus sinensis) flower extract Pentylene glycol

Pfaffia paniculata extract Phenetyyl alcohol Phenol

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyisopropanol’ Phenyl mercuric acetate Phenyl mercuric benzoate Phenyl mercuric borate o-Phenylphenol Phytosphingosine Piroctone olamine

Polymethoxy bicyclic oxazolidine Potassium sorbate Propylparaben

Ricinoleamodopropyltrimonium ethosulfate Sage (Salvia officinalis) extract Sodium benzoate

Sodium pyrithion Sodium ricinoleate

Sodium shale oil sulfonate

Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) oil Thimerosal

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) extract Thymol Triclocarban Triclosan

Undecylenamidoproopyltrimonium methosulfate

Undecylenic acid Zinc oxide Zinc PCA

Zinc pyrithione Zine undecylenate

(9)Anti-oxidant

Apple (Pyrus malus) extract Ascorbic acid

Ascorbic acid polypeptide Ascorbyl oleate Ascorbyl palmitate

Aspergillus/aspidesferma quebiacho ferment BHA BHT

Black tea (Camellia sinensis) extract t-Buty hydroquinone

Decarboxy Carnosine HCI Dilauryl thiiodipropionate Dimyristyl thiodipropionate Disodium EDTA

Distearyl thiodipropionate Dodecyl gallate

Dog rose (rosa canina) hips extract EDTA

Ergothioneine Erythorbic acid Ferulic acid

Grape (Vitis vinifera) seed extract

Greentea (Camellia sinensis or C oleifera) extract HEDTA

Hydroquinone-beta-C-glucopyranoside Hydroquinone, USP p-Hydroxyanisole

Lactococcus ferment lysate Lactoferrin

Lemon (Citrus medica limonum) peel extract

Levulinic acid

Lysine PCA

Magnesium/ascorbate PCA Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate Melanin

Methyl gallate

Niacinamide ascorbate Nordihydroguaiaretic acid Oat (Avena sativa) extract Olive (Olea europaea) oil

Orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) extract Oryzanol

Papaya (Jcarica papaya) extract Pentasodium pentetate Pentetic acid

Phyllanthus emblica extract (or Emblica officinalis)

Pineapple (Ananas sativus) extract Proly Histamine HCI Propyl gallate

Retinyl palmitate polypepide

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) extract Saccharomyces lysate extract “Sage(Salvia officinalis)extract sodium ascorbate

Sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate Sodium erythorbate Sodium metabisulfite Sodium selenate Sodium sulfite

Superoxide dismutase

Tea(Camellia sinensis)extract ]Tetrasodium EDTA Tocopherol

Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl linoleate Tocotrienols oil

Wheat (Triticum vulgare) germ oil

Wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare) extract Yeast beta glucan Yeast (saccharomyces cerevisiae)extract(Faex)

(10)anti-perspirant

Allantoin-aluminum chlorhydrate

Aluminum capryloyl hydrolyzed collagen Aluminum chloride

Aluminum chlorohydrate Aluminum chlorohydrate Aluminum chlorohydrex Aluminum chloroihydrex Pg Aluminum PCA

Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate

Aluminm undecylenoyl collagen amino acids

Aluminum zirconium chloiroihydrate Aluminum zirconium octachlorohydeex Gly

Aluminum zirconi8um pentachlorohydrate Aluminum zirconium, pentachlorohydrex Gxlzy

Aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate Aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY

Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY

Aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate Aluminum zirconiym trichlorohydrex GLY Manesium aluminometasilicate Quercus Robue bark Extract Sage (salvia officinalis) extract Tormentil (Potentilla erecta) extract Zirconium chlorohydrate

(11)Antiseptic

Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) extract Alcohol denat.

Algae (ascophyllum nodosum) extract Aluminum PcA

Azadirachta indica extract

2-Bromo-21-nitropropane-1.3-diol Calendula amurrensis extract p-Chloro-m-cresol

clove (Eugenia caryophyllus) oil Cocoa (theobroma cacao) extract

Conefllower (Echinacea purpurea) extract Dichlorobenzyl alcohol Entada phaseoloides extract Eucalyptus globules extract

Golden seal (Hydrastis Canadensis ) root

extract

Hexachlorophene

Holy basil (Hydrastis Canadensis) root extract

Hexachlorophene Holy basil extract

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) extract Melia australasica extract Melia azadirachta seed oil Methyl salicylate

Methyl salicylate USP

Neem (Melia azadirachta) extract Neem (melia azadirachta) seed oil Orange citrus aurantium dulcis) peel extract

Oxyquinoline sulfate Pfaffia paniculata extract

Potassium abietoyl hydrolyzed collagen PVP-iodine Silver nitrate Sodium salicylate

Sterculia platanifolia extract Thymus Serpillum extract

Tormentil (Potentilla erecta) extract Xanthozylum bungeanum extract

(12)Antistat Acetamide MEA

Acetamidopropyl trimonium chloride 6-(N-acetylamino)-4-oxyhexyltrimonium chloxide

Acrylate/Lauryl acrylate/Stearyl

Acrylate/Ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolyme

Alkyl dimethyl betaine

Babassumidopropalkonium chloride Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine ‘Behenamidopropyl ethyldeionium ethosulfate

Behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride Behentrimonium chloride Behenyl betaine

Carboxymethyl chitin

Cetethyl morpholinium ethosulfate Cetrimonium chloride Chitin Chitosan

Cocamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen

Cocodimnonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin

Cocodimonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed hair keratin

Cocodimonium hyydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein

Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein

Cicetyldimoium chloride

Dimethicone hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride

Dimethyl behenamine Dimethyl cocamine Simethyl palmitamine Dimethyl soyamine Dimetyly tallowamine

Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate

Distearyldimonium chloride

N-Dodecyl-N,N-demethy_N-(dodecyl acetate ammonium chloride

Erucamidopropyl hydroxysultaine Glyceryl monopyroglutamate

Hydroethyl erucamidopropyl dimonium chloride’

Hydrogenated tallowamine oxide Hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride

Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin

Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed silk Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein

Isostearamidoprppyl dimethylamine Isostearamidopropyl morphlline lactate Isostearyl ethylimidazolinium ethosulfate Lactamidopropyl trimonium chloride

Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed

wheat protein

Lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen

Laury PG-trimoniuym chloride Linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimerdilinoleate

Methacryloyl ethyl betaine/methacrylates copolymer

Olealkoonium chloride

PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides PEG-2 cocamine PEG-10 cocamine

PEG-2cocomonium chloride

PEG-3 dioleylamidoethylethylmonium methoulufate

PEG-2oleammonium chloride PEG-15soyamine

PEG-5stearyl ammonium lactate

PG-hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride

Polyquaternium-6

PPg-99 diethylmonium chloride PPG-25 diethylmonium chloride PPG-40 diethylmonium chloride Propylene glycol stearate Quaternium-26 Quaternium-27 Quaternium-53 Quaternium-62 Quaternium-70 Quaternium-72

Quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen Rapeseedamidopropyl benzyldimonium chloride

Rapeseedamidopropyl epoxypropyl dimonium chloride Silica, colloidal Sorbitan caprylate

N-Soya-(3-amidopropyl)-N,N-dimethyl-N-ethyl ammonium ethyl sulfate Soyethyldimonium ethosulfate Soyethyl morpholinium ethoulfate Stearalkonium chloride

Stearamidopropyl benzyl dimonium chloride

Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine Stearamidopropyl ethyldimoniumethosulfate Steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen

Steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein

Steartrimonium chloride

Wheat germamidopropoalkonium chloride Wheat germamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate

(13)Astringent

Acacia concinna extract Acacia farnesiana extract

Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) extract Alcoxa

Aloe capensis extract Aluminum lactate

Apple (Pyrus malus) extract Astragalus sinicus extract

Astrocaryum murumuru extract Astrocaryum tucuma extract Azadirachta indica extract Azelamide MEA

Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) extract

Birch (Betula alba) leaf extract

Black cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa) extract

Catalpa kaempfera extract Celastrus paniculata extract

Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) extract

Coccinea indica extract

Coffee (coffea arabica) bean extract Elder (Sambucus nigra) oil Elm (Ulmus campestris) extract Euterpe precatoria extract

Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) extract

Eyebright (euphrasia officinalis) extract Garcini indica seed butter

Gentian (Gentiana lutea) extract Geranium maculatum extract Grape (Vitis vinifera )leaf extract Henna (Lawsonia inermis) extract

Hierochloe odorata extract

Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) extract

Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) extract Hops (Humulus lupulus) extract

Horsetail (equisetum arvense) extraxt Ivy (Hedera helix) extract

Jujube (Zizyphus jujuba) extract Juniperus communis extract Kadsura heteliloca extract Kola (Cola acuminata) extract

Lady’s mantle (alchemilla vulgaris) extract

Lysimachia foenum-graecum extract Magnolia spp.extract

Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris) extract

Lemon bioflavonoids extract

Lemon (Citrus medica limonum ) extract Lemon (Citrus medica limonum) peel extract

Lysimachia foenum0graecum extract Magnolia spp.extract Mauritia flexosa extract ]Maximilliana regia extract Melaleuca uncinata extract Melaleuca wilsonii extract Melia australasica extract

Neem (Melia azadirachta) seed oil Nettle (Urtica dioica) extract Oak(Quercus)bark extract Palmetto extract

Passionflwoer (Passiflwra ) fruit extract Periwinkle (Vinca minor) extract

Phyllanthus emblica extract (or Emblica officinalis)

Plantain (Plantago major) extract Polygonum multiflorum extract Pterocarpus marsupianus extract Quercus Robur Bark Extract Raspberry (Rubus) extract Rose (Rosa damascena) extract

Sandalwood (Santalum album) extract Sanguisorbae root extract Swlinum spp.extract Shorea robusota extract St John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) extract

Strawberry (Fragaria wesca) leaf extract Tannic acid

Tea (Camellia sinensis) extract Thymus Serpillum Extract Verbena officinalis extract Veriveria zizanoides extract

Walnut (Juglans regia) leaf extract Walnut (Juglans regia) oil

Wheat (Triticum vulgare) protein White nettle (Lamium album ) extract Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) extract

Xanthozylum bungeanum extract Zinc-L-lactate

(16). Bleaching agent

Dog rose(Rosa canina) seed extract Hydrogen peroxide Kojic acid

Mulberry (Morus nigra) extract Sanguisorbae root extract

(15). Conditioner Acetamide MEA

6-(N-Acetylamino)-4-oxyhexyltrimonium chloride

Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer

Adipic

acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylene triamine copolymer

Arginine

Behenalkonium chloride

Behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropyl dimonium chloride

Behenamidopropyldimethylamine behenate

Behenamidopropyl ethyldemonium ethosulfate

Behenamidopropyl Pg-dimonium

chlorideBehenamine oxideBehentrimonium chloride

Behenyl betaine

Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen Bishydroxyethyl dihydroxypropyl stearaminiumchloride

Octoxyglycerin

Salvia miltiorrhiza extract

Sandalwood (Santalum album) Canolamidopropyl betaine Capramide DEA

Caprylic/capric/lauric triglyceride Caprylyl pyrrolidone Cassia auriculata extract Cetamine oxide

Cetearalkonium chloride Cetrimonium chloride Chitosan PCA

Cholesteryl/octydodecyl lauroyl glutamate Citric acid

Cocamidopropyl dimethylamine

Cocamidopropyl dimetyylamine lactate Cocamidopropyl

dimethylaminohydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen

Cocamidopropyldimonium

Hydroxypropylhydrolyzed collaen Cocamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate

(17). Deodorant Abietic acid

Aluminum citrate Aluminum PCA

Azadirachta indica extract

Balm mint (Melissa officinalis) extract C12-13 alkyl lactate

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract Chlorophyllin-copper complex Eugenia jambolana extract Farnesol

Fermented vegetable extract

Ginger lily (Hedychium spicatum) extract

alpha-Glucan-oligosaccharide Hydrogenated polydecene

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) extract

Magnesium aluminometasilicate Mauritia flexosa extract Sodium aluminum chlorohydroxy lactate Sodium usnate

Spondias amara extract Triethyl citrate

Zinc phenolsulfonate Zinc ricinoleate

(18). Dispersant

Alkylated polyvinylpyrrolidone 2-Buty l-octanoic acid C20-40 alcohols C30-50 alcohols C40-60 alcohols

C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearyl stearate Caprylyl methicone

Castor(Ricinus communis)oil Eeteareth-15 Ceteareth-20 Ceteareth-30 Ceteth-15 Ceteth-25

Cetyl PPG-2 isodeceth-7 carboxylate Cholesteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate

C12-15 pareth-10

Decaglycerol monodioleate Decyltetradecanol

Diisocetyl dodecanedioate Diisostearyl adipate Diisostearyl fumarate Diisostearyl malate

Dimethicone copolyol beeswax Dimethicone copolyol methyl ether Dimethiconol beeswax

Dioctyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate Dioctyldodecyl dodecanedioate Dioctyldodecyl fluoroheptyl citrate Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate

Ethyl hydroxymethyl oleyl oxazoline Galactoarabinan Glyceryl caprylate

Glyceryl caprylate/caprate

2-Hexyl l-decanoic acid Hydrogenated castor oil Hydrogenaed lecithin

Hydrogenated tallow glycerides Isobutylene/MA copolymer Iswcetyl alcohol

Isopropyl C12-15-pareth-9-carboxylate Isostearyl hydroxystearate Isostearyl neopentanoate Lanolin acid Laureth-4 Laureth-6 Laureth-15 Laureth-16 Melanin Nonoxynol-2 Nonoxynol-18 Nonoxynol-20 Nonoxynol-30 Nonoxynol-40 Octoxynol-5 Octoxynol-10 Octoxynol 16 Octoxynol-30 Octoxynol 40 Octoxynol 70 Octyldodecanol Octyldodecety-5

Octyldodecyl/dimethicone copolyol citrate

Octyldodecyl octyldodecanoate Octyl pelargonate Oleth-5 Olety-10 Olety-15 Oleth-40

PEG-20 almond glycerides PEG-6 beeswax PEG-8 beeswax PEG-12 beeswax PEG-12 carnauba PEG-5 castor oil PEG-9 castor oil PEG-15 castor oil PEG-25 castor oil PEG-18 castor oil dioleate PEG-10 dioleate

PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate PEG-12 glyceryl dioleate PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate PEG-15 glyceryl oleate PEG-5 glyceryl sesquioleate

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil PCA isostearate PEG-12 laurate PEG-5 oleamine PEG-15 oleamine PEG-9 oleate

PEG-60 shea butter glycerides PEG-8/SMDI copolymer PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate PEG-20 sorbitan triisosterate PEG-5 stearamine PEG-10 stearamine PEG-15 stearamine PEG-9 stearate

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (3-sn-Phosphatidyl)choline,soya, hydrogenated Poloxamer 101 Poloxamer 122 Poloxamer 181

Poloxamer 182 Poloxamer 184 Polydecene

Polyglyceryl-2 PEG-10 Laurae Polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate Polyglyceryl-5distearate Polyglyceryl-10 distearate Polyglyceryl-10 linoleate

Polyglyceryl-6 mixed fatty acids Polyglyceryl-10 myristate Polyglyceryl-3oleate Polyglyceryl-10 oleate

Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate Polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate

Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate Polyhydroxystearic acid Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 40 Polysorbate 60 Polysorbate 80

Potassium polyacrylate PPG-14 buty ether

PPG-25 diethylmonium chloride PPG-40 diethylmonium chloride PPG-9 diethylmonium phosphate PPG-3 PEG-6 oleyl ether PPG-12/SMDI copolymer PPG-51/SMDI copolymer PPG-15 stearyl etyer PVP/eicosene copolymer PVP/hexadecane copolymer PVP/hexadecane copolymer

Rapeseed oil, ethoxylated high erucic acid Ricinoleyl alcohol

Sodium C14-17 alkyl secsulfonate

Sodium lignosulfonate Sodium polymethacrylate

Sodium polynaphthalenesulfonate Sorbitan oleate Steareth-10 Steareth-20

Tri C12-13 alkyl citrate

Trideceth-18

Triisostearin Peg-6 esters Trilaureth-4 phosphate

Trimethylolpropane triisostearate Trimethylolpropane triisostearate Trioctyldodecyl citrate Trideceth-10 Tricontanyl PVP

4.2 botanical Extracts used in cosmeceuticals in The Europe and U.S.A. (欧洲美国功能化妆品所用的植物提取物)

The use of plant extracts in cosmetic formulation is on the rise, mostly because of the poor image animal-derived extracts have acquired during the past few years. This was due, in part, to new reports regarding bovine spongiform encephalitis (BSE). According to a markiting report issued by the Freadonia Group, Cleveland, Ohio in 2001, in US, demand for botanical ertracts used for cosmeceuticals and toiletries is projected to increase 10.5 percent annually to $106 million in 2005. Bioactive ingredients derived from plants. Source are being heavily promoted to astify consumers, demands brought on by the environmental movement so Natural products, have become a key marketing focus in marketing focus in the industry. Botanical: Acacia

Acacia concinna extract Acacia farnesiana extract

Acacia senegal extract Agave Sisalana

Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) extract

Alder (Alnus firmifolia) extract Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) extract Algae (Ascophyllum nodosum) extract

Algae extract

Algae (Lithothamnium calcareum) extract

Alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria) root extract

Aloe barbadensis

Aloe barbadensis extract Aloe barbadensis gel Aloe barbadensis leaf juice Aloe capensis extract Aloe ferox extract

Alpine Veronica (veronica alpina) extract

American centaury (Sabbatia angularis) extract

Angelica archangelica extract Angelica archangelica root extract Anise (Illicium verum) extract Anise (Pimpinella anisu) extract Apple (pyrus malus ) extract

Apricot (Prunus armeniaca ) extract Arnica Montana extract

Arrowroot (Maranta arudinacea) root extract

Artemisia capillaries extract

Artichoke (Cynara scolymus) extract Asafetida (Ferula assa focida) extract

Asarum sieboldi extract Asparagopsis armata extract Asparagus officinalis extract

Aspen (Populus tremuloides ) bark extract

Astragalus membranaceus root extract

Astragalus sinicus extract Avens (Geum rivale) extract

Avocado (persea gratissima) extract Balm mint (Melissa officinalis) extract

Balm mint (Melissa offficinalis) oil extract

Balm of Gilead (commiphora gileadensis) extract

Bamboo (Bambusa arundinacea) extract

Banana (Musa sapientum ) extract Barley (Hordeum vulgare) extract Basil (Ocimum basilicum ) extract Bearberry (Arctostapylos uva-ursi) extract

Bee pollen extract

Beet (Beta vulgaris) extract Benzoin (Styrax benzoin ) resin extract

Berberis aristata extract Berberis vulgaris extract

Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus ) extract

Bioflavonoids

Birch (Betula alba) bark extract Birch( Betula alba) leaf extract Birch (Betula platyphylla japonica) extract

Bitter orang (citrus aurantium amara extract

Bitter orange (Citrus aurantium amara) flower extract

Bitter orange (citrus aurantium amara) peel extract

Blackberry (Rubus villosus )fruit extract

Black cohosh (Cimicifuga racemosa)extract

Black currant (Ribes nigrum ) extract

Black currant (Ribes nigrum) oil Black henna extract

Black pepper (Piper nigrum) seed extract

Black poplar (populus nigra) extract Black walnut (Juglans nigra) extract Bladderwrack (Fucus vesiculosus ) extract

Blessed thistle (Carbenia benedicta) extract

Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) fruit extract

Blue flag (Iris versicolor ) extract Borage (Borago officinalis) extract Buckthorn (Frangula alnus) extract Burdock (Arctium lappa) extract Burdock (Arctium majus) root extract

Burdock (Arctu minus) root extract Burnet extract

Butcherbroom (Ruscus aculeatus) extract

Cabbage rose (Rosa centifolia) extract

Cactus (cereus grandiflorus) extract Calamus (Acorus calamus) extract Calendula officinalis extract California nutmeg (Torreya californica) extract

Cananga Odorata flower Extract Canola sterols

Caper (Capparis spinosa) extract Capsicum frutescens extract Capsicum frutescens oleoresin Garaway (Carum carvi) extract Carrageenan (Chondrus crispus) Carrot (Daucus carota sativa ) extract

Carrot (daucus carota sativa) extract Carrot (daucus carota sativa) oil Cassia aufriculata extract Ceanothus americanus extract Celandin (chelidonium majus) extract

Celery (Capium graveolensz extract Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) extract

Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) oil Chaparral (Larrea divoricata) extract Chaparral (Larrea mexicana) extract Chenopodium ambrasioides extract Cherry bark

Cherry (Prunus speciosa) leaf extract Cherry (Prunus virginiana) bark extract

Chestnut (Castanea sativa) extract] Chickweed (Stellaria media) extract Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) extract Chlorella vulgaris extract

Chrysanthemum cocinum flower extract

Cimicifuga foetida rhizome extract Cinchona succirubra extract Cinnamon (cinnamonum cassia) bark extract Citral

Citroflavonoid, water soluble Citrus bioflavonoid complex Citru unshiu peel extract Clary (Salvia sclarea) extract Clove (Eugenia caryophyllus) extract

Clover (trifolium pratense) extract Cnidium officinale extract Cnidium officinale water

Cocoa (Theobroma cacao) extract Coconut (Cocos uncifera) extract Coffee (Coffea arabica) bean extract Cohune (Orbigyna cohune) oil Colloidal oatmeal

Coltsfoot (tusssilago farfara) leaf extract

Comfrey (symphytum oficinale) extract

Comfrey (symphytum officinale) leaf extract

Condurango(Marsdenia condurango) exract

Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) extract

Corallina officinalis

Corchorus olitorius extract

Coriander (coriandrum sativum) extract

Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) extract

Corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas) extract Corn (Zea mays) extract Corn (Zea mays) silk extract Couch grass (Agropyron repens) extract

Crataegus monogina extract

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) extract Cudweed (Gnaphalium polycephalum) extract Cumin us rotundus extract

Cypress (Cupresssus sempervirens) extract

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) extract

Date (Phoneix dactylifera) extract Dill (Peucedanum graveolens) extract

Dog rose (Rosa canina) hips extract Dyer’s broom extract

Eastern pine (Pinus strobus) cone extract

Elder (Sambucus nigra) berry extract Elder (Sambucus nigra ) extract

Elecampane (Inula helenium) extract Eleuthero ginseng (Acanthopanax senticosus) extract

Elem (Ulmus campestris) extract Ephedra distachya extract Ethyl macadamiate

Eucalyptus globules extract Eucalyptus globules oil Eucommia ulmoides extract

Evening primrose (oenothera biennis) extract

Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil

Everlasting (Helichrysum arenarium) extract

Eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis) extract

Fennel (foeniculum vulgare0 extract Fenugreek 9Trigonella foenum-graecum) extract Fig (Ficus carica) extract Fir needle extract

Fumitory (fumaria officinalis) extract

Garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina) flower extract

Gardenia florida extract

Garlic9allium sativum) extract Gelidium cartilagineum Gentiana lutea extract Gentiana scabra extract

Gentian (Gentiana lutea) extract Geranium maculatum extract Gindelia camporum extract

Ginseng Lily (hedychium spicatum) extract

Ginger (Zingiber officinale) root extract

]Ginkgo biloba extract

Ginseng (Panax ginseng) extract Glycyrrhetinic acid Glycyrrhizic acid

Glycyrrhizin, ammoniated

Golden seal (Hydrastis Canadensis) root extract

Glodthread (Coptis japonica ) extract Grapefruit (Citrus grandis) extract Grapefruit (Citrus grandis) peel extract

Grape (Vitis vinifera) distillate Grape (Vitis vinifera) extract Grape (Vitis vinifera) leaf extract Grape (Vitis vinifera) seed extract Grape (Vitis vinifera) skin extract Greeen bean (Phaseolus lunatus) extract

Groun ivy (Glechoma hederacea) extract

Guarana (Paullinia cupana) extract Guava (Psidium guajava) extract

Harpagophytum procumbens extract Hayflower extract

Hazel (corylus avellana) extract Hazel (Corylus avellana) nut extract Heather (calluna vulgaris) extract Henna (Lawsonia inermis) extract Hesperidin Hesperidin

Hesperidin methyl chalcone Hibiscus sabdariffa extract Hibiscus syriacus extract High beta-glucan barley flour

Holy basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum or O.sanctum) extract Honey (Mel) extract

Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) extract

Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) extract

Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) leaf extract

Hops (Humulus lupulus0 extract Horehound (Marrubium vulgare) extract

Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) extract

Horseradish (cochlearia armoracia) extract

Horsetail (equisetum arvense) extract

Houttuynia cordata extract

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) extract

Hydrocotyl (centella asiatica) extract Hydrolyzed corallina officinalis Hydrolyzed oat protein Hydrolyzed soy flour

Hydrolyzed Ulva lactuca extract Impomoea bona-nox flower extract Indian cress (tropaeolum majus)extract

Isodonis japonicus extract Ivy (Hedera helix) extract Japanese angelica (Angelica acutiloba extract

Japanese angelica (Angelica acutiloba) water

Japanese hawthorn (Crataegus cuneata)extract

Jasmine (Jasminum officinale) extract

Job’s tears (coix lacryma-jobi) extract

Jojoba (Buxus chinensis) seed powder

Jojoba (simmondsia Chinensis) seed extract

Juniperus communis extract

Juniperus oxycedrus berry extract Kangaroo pao (anigozanthos flavidus) flower extract Kelp

Kelp (Macrocystis pyrifera) extract Kiwi (actinidia chinensis) fruit extract

Kiwi (actinidia chinensis) seed oil Kola (Cola acuminata) extract

Lady’s mantle (alchemilla vulgaris) extract

Laminaria digitata exrtract Laurel (Laurus nobilis) extract Levender (Lavandula angustifolia) extract

Lavender (lavandula angustifolia) water

Lemon bioflavonids extract Lemon (citrus medica limonum) extract

Lemon (citrus medica limonum) juice extract

Lemon (citrus medica limonum) peel extract

Lemongrass (cymbopogon schoenanthus) extract

Leopard flower (Belamcanda chinensis) root extract

Leptospermum scopariu oil

Lettuce (Lactuca scariola sativa)

extract

Lilac 9syringa vulgaris) extract Linden (Tilia cordata) extract Linden (tilia cordata) extract Linden (tilia cordata) water Linseed (Linum Usetatissimum) seed extract

Loquat (eriobotrya japonica) leaf extract

Lotus corniculatus extract

Lovage(Levisticum officinale)root extract

Lupin (Lupinus albus 0seed extract Macadamia ternifolia seed extract Magnolia acuminata bark extract Magnolia kobus extract Maidenhair fern (Adiantu capillus-veneris) extract

Mallow (Malva sylvestris) extract Malpighia punicifolia

Mandrake (Mandragora officinarum) extract

Mango (Mangifera indica) extract Mannan Marigold

Marsh mallow (althaea officinalis) extract

Matricaria (chamomilla recutita) extract

Meadowsweet (spiraea ulmaria) extract

MeA iodine

Melon (cucumis melo) extract Mistletoe (viscum album) extract Mugwort (Morus bombycis) root extract

Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) extract Mushroom extract

Myrrh (Commiphora myrha) extract Myrrhe (commiphor myrrha) extract Myrtle (Myrtus communis) extract Nasturtium extract

Neem (Myristica fragrans) extract Oak (Quercus) bark extract Oak (Quercus) root extract Oat (Avena saiva) bran

Oat (Avena sativa) bran extract Oat (Avena sativa) flour Oat (Avena sativa) protein Oat flour

Olibanum (boswellia carterii) extract Olive (Olea europeea) extract

Olive (Olea europaea) leapf extract Onion (allium cepa) extract

Orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) flower extract

Orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) peel extract

Orange (Citrus sinensis) flower extract

Paeonia lactiflorum extract Pansy (viola tricolor ) extract Papaya (carica Papaya) extract

Papaya (Carica papaya ) fruit extract Parsley (Carum petroselinum) extract

Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) extract

Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) flower extract

Passionflower (Passiflora) fruit extract

Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) leaf extract

Paullinia cupana seed extract

Peach (Prunus persica) leaf extract Pea (Pisum sativum 0extract Pectin

PEG-80 jojoba acid/alcohol PEG-120 jojoba acid/alcohol Pelargonium capitatum extract Pellitory (Parietaria officinalis) extract

Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) extract

Peony 9Paeonia obovata) root extract

Peppermint (Mentah piperita) extract

Peppermint 9Mentha piperita) oil Perillla ocymoides extract

Periwinkle (Vinca minor) extract Persimmon (Diospyros kaki) leaf extract

Pfaffia paniculata extract Philodendron (Phellodendron amurense) extract Phospholipids

Phyllanthus emblica extract9or emblica officinalis)

Pichi (fabiana imgricata) leaf extract Pimento (Pimenta officinalis) extract Pineapple (ananas sativus) fruit extract

Pine9Pinus sylvestris) cone extract Pine (pinus sylvestris) needle extract Piper Nigrum Extract

Plantain (Plantago major) extract Pollen extract

Polygonatum multifolrum extract Pomegrannate (Punica gradatum ) extract Pongamol

Poria cocos extract

Psoralea corylifolia extract Pueraria lobota extract Pueraria lobota extract Pyrethrum (tanacetum

cinerafiifolium) root extract Quercus Robur Bark Extract Quillaja saponaria extract

Quince (Pyrus cydonia0 seed extract Quinoa9Chenopodium quinoa0extract

Raspberry (Rubus) extract Ranwolfia serpentina extract Red clover

Red sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus) extract

Rehmanna elata root extract

Restharrow (Ononis spinosa) extract Rhatany (krameria triandra0 extract Rhododeneron chrysanthum extract Rhodoendron chrysanthum leaf extract

Rhodophycea extract

Rhubarb (Rheum palmatum) extract Rice fatty acid

Rice 9oryza sativa) bran extract Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) extract

Rose (Rosa damascena) extract Rose (Rosa multiflora) extract Rubia cordifolia extract Rubia tinctorum extract

Saccharomyces/rice (Oryza sativa) extrat

Sage (Salvia officinalis ) extract Sage (Salvia officinalis) water Sandalwood (Santalum album) extract

Sanguinaria Canadensis extract Sapindus trifoliatus extract Saponaria officinalis extract Sarsaparilla (Smilax

aristolochiaefolia) extract Sasa veitchii extract

Sassafras officinale extract Saxifraga sarmentosa extract Scabiosa arvensis extract Schinus Molle Extract

Schizandra chinensis fruit extract Scutellaria baicatensis root extract

Sea fennel (crithmum maritimum) extract

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) seed extract

Shield fern (dryopteris filix-mas) extract Silk extract

Silver fir (Abies pectinata) extract Sisal (Agave rigida) extract

Slippery elm (Ulmus fulva) extract Soapberry (sapindus mukuross) extract

Sophora angustifolia extract

Sophora flavescens root extract Sophora japonica extract

Sorrel (rumex acetosella) extract Soybean (glycine soja) extract Soybean (glycine soja) germ extract

Soybean (Glycine soja) lipid Soybean (glycine soja) protein Soybean (Glycine soja) sterol

Spearmint (Mentha viridis) extract Spearmint (Mentah viridis) oil

Spinach 9Spinacia oleracea) extract Spirulina maxima extract St John’s wort(Hypericum perforatum)extract

Strawberry (Fragaria vesca) leaf extract

Sumac (Rhus Glabra) extract

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus ) seed extract

Sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) extract

Sweet almond (Orybys antgdakys dulcis) oil

Sweet cherry 9Prunus avium) extract Sweet cicely (Anthriscus cerefolium) extract

Swet cicely (Anthriscus cerefoloium) extract

Sweet clover (Melilotus officinalis) extract

Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana) extract

Sweet marjoram (Origanm majorana) extract

Sweet violet (Viola odorata) extract Swertia japonica extract

Tasy (Tanacetum vulgare) extract Tea (camellia sinensis) extract Terminalia sericea extract

Thyme (thymus vulgaris) extract Thymus serpillum extract

Tomato (solanum lycopersicum) extract Tormentil (Potentilla erecta) extract Trailing arbutus (Epigaea repens) leaf extract

Tuberose (Polianthes tuberrosa) extract

Turmeric (Curcuma longa) extract Valerian (Valeriana) extract

Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) root extract

Verbena officinalis extract Vetiveria zizanoides extract

Walnut (Juglans regia) leaf extract Water chestnut (Eleocharis dulcis) seed extract

Watercress (Nasturtium officinale) extract

Water lily (Nymphaea alba) root extract

Watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris) extract

Wheat bran lipids

Wheat (Tritcum vulgare) seed extract

Wheat (Tritcum vulgare) extract Wheat (Tritcum vulgare) germ extract

Wheat (Tritcum vulgare) protein White ginger (Hedychium coronarium) extract

White nettle (Lamium album) extract

Wild cherry (Prunus serotina) bark extract

Wild cinquefoil (Potentilla aurea) extract

Wild indigo (Baptista tinctoria) Wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare) extract

Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) extract

Willow (Salix alba) bark extract Willow (Salix alba ) distillate Willow (Salix alba ) extract

Willow (Salix alba ) flower extract

Willow (Salix alba ) leaf extract Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) extract

Wood betony extract

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) extract

Yeast beta glucan

Yucca schidigera extract Yucca vera extract

Zanthoxylum piperitum extract Zedoary (Curcuma zedoraria)oil

4.3 Chinese plants extracts for cosmeceuticals (中国植物提取物)

The extraordinary therapeutic properties of certain Oriental plants are well

known and have been used empirically for the treatment of various conditions and illnesses in Oriental civilizations since immemorial.

These plant drugs are used in various forms for both the alleviation of symptoms and the treatment of many diseases by one third of the World population. Since the earliest times of traditional uses of the medicinal and healing properties of specific plants and herbs have been recorded and preserved in countless written texts and ancient pharmacopoeia published through the ages by Imperial decree.11

Nearly 1100 drugs derived from botanical sources are now used in Oriental

cultures and from these drugs, up to 100,000 remedies are prepared and used. In almost all cases, these drugs have been in regular use for thousands of years. Unlike the modern allopathic drugs of the 20th century, these traditional plants drugs do not depend on the latest techniques of synthetic chemistry for their functionality, they do not require long term testing to ascertain potential toxic side effects; they have, in fact, been effectively subjected to the largest and longest human trials known, involving countless generations over many centuries. Throughout this period, many drugs and remedies exhibiting toxic effects have been recorded. This has led to the withdrawal from use of certain plants, whilst others, whose benefits outweigh their side effects

have been retained, but with well documented accounts of their toxic properties, often accompanied by instructions on how to avoid or ameliorate these effects. Oriental plant derived medicines differ from herbs used in Western phytotherapy in that the former are not merely dried plant parts or their extracts or tinctures, but are actually crude medicinal drugs. In many cases, these have been produced using multistage processing incorporating selection, cutting, peeling, scrubbing, leaching, roasting, steaming and so on, at precisely defined times of day or season. Preparation is often painstakingly performed by hand, using traditional techniques that have been handed down from generation to generation. These unique methods are steeped in empirical Oriental wisdom and are believed to considerably alter the state of the basic materials and importantly, to concurrently alter the functionality of the active ingredients and their allied components from one state to another. A parallel may be drawn here with the use of plants as sources of fragrance materials, where the fragrance compounds of the plant alter almost as soon as the plant is harvested due, for example, to

enzymatically catalyzed reactions, oxidation, etc. In recognition of this, head-space analysis is becoming of more interest to the fragrance companies as they try to mimic the fragrance of living plants.

An Oriental plant drug derived from one part of a herb, for example the flower, can be available in numerous forms, each differing from the other in terms of its chemical constituents. This may be exampled by Ju Hua, where an extract is produced from prepared flower petals. During the preparation of plant drugs according to traditional Oriental methods, the prepared flowers will contain active constituents are known as

allied from those in the fresh or unprepared flowers. These conditions are known a allied plant drugs and are specific and individual to that particular preparation

technique. Each of the allied forms will contain minute quantities of unique chemical ingredients and exhibit specific therapeutic properties associated with those

ingredients and that particular preparation technique. These will be different from the effects of allied drugs produced from the same plant but using different preparation techniques. It is believed to be the interaction of these individual components that effectively act in concert to trigger defense mechanisms in the body. ( This is in fact the basis of modern Callus cell / tissue culture techniques for forming new derivatives of phytochemicals and for proving the biosynthetic studies of absolute configuration of such derivatives.)

Each of these allied plant drugs are defined in terms of their method of preparation, dosage and usage for the treatment of specific ailments. In the classical herbal texts and ancient Imperial pharmacopoeia of the Orient, each of these drugs is precisely named with relevant prefixes and suffixes for each and every single allied drug, with specific reference being made also to the major plant drug. Campo Research has systematically researched and prepared a range of Guan Yao, officinal remedies

which are classified in the Ben Cao Kang Mu ( 1596 A.D. ), by the great naturalist Li Zhi Chen, as plant drugs which are used in traditional Oriental therapy for skin and hair care, as ointments, Iiniments, salves etc. These Oriental plant extracts are 100% pure, natural, therapeutic ingredients , which are eminently suitable for inclusion in pure, natural, therapeutic ingredients, which are eminently suitable for inclusion in

pure, natural, cosmetics formulations. The range of Campo Oriental plant extracts is selected from Kingly or Minister classes of plant drugs , which are non-toxic and very safe to incorporate into cosmetics formulations. See Tab.4-1.

Tab.4-1

Plant drugs - classification

Emperor or Kingly

Minster or Ministerial

Chancellor or Servant

Ambassador or Slave

The Emperor or Kingly drugs are the principal curative agents and represent the largest proportion of any Chinese herb remedy; they are generally considered

non-toxic. Minster or Ministerial herbs act as synergists or adjuvants to the Emperor. They are also regarded as being non - toxic. Chancellor or Servant herbs are normally used in formulae in small quantities and are considered to act in the same way as a catalyst, orchestrating the activity and modifying the normal therapeutic pathway of the other ingredients. Ambassador or Slave herbs are considered the most powerful, requiring the addition of an order of magnitude less than the Servants to produce effectively the same effects. Both Servant and Slave classes are only normally added to multi-component formulae, which can often contain up to fifteen different herbs. In Western terms, both of these classes would be considered toxic in their own right, but in the low concentrations used in multicomponent remedies they appear to be used

safely without exhibiting any significant toxic effects. It should also be noted that these classifications refer to internal use only and not for topical or cosmetics

applications. For example, Ling Ling Xiang is considered an Ambassador class drug when used internally, but for external, topical applications, as an extract in sesame oil or glycols it is considered non-toxic. In the case of the Campo extract, it is further detoxified with Chen-pi (aged citrus peel ), Gan Cao (licorice) and Cao Hua (Jujube dates), which are added in small quantities to remove or neutralize any toxins that may be present. Although it is already possible to source glycolic extracts of certain plants that are used in traditional Oriental medicine, for example ginger (Sheng Jiang) is commonly available, it is necessary to differentiate these from Campo range of plant extracts that are prepared from fresh plant material using traditional Oriental methodology. In these cases, Campo products are synergistic blends of allied plant drugs, which although derived from a particular part of a specific species by Western extraction techniques.

The Campo hydroglycolic extracts of oriental allied plant drugs are natural

ingredients which have specifically developed for inclusion in modern cosmetics and toiletries formulations through complex proprietary extraction and decolourisation processes. Ancient methodology involving solar heating and the use of natural gas from fermentation of agricultural produce have been translated into 20th century technology by Campo. Solar heating is provided by solar reflective / thermal transfer mirrors and for the production of natural extraction gas, recycled carbon dioxide released from their solar powered plant growth chambers is used.

These Oriental plant extracts were originally prepared in cold-pressed fractionated sesame oil - the fractionation process as specified in the 14th century A.D. edition of the 1500 year old classic Ben-Xing, (See Science and Civilization in China, Sir Joseph Needham FRS, Cambridge University ). This process has been updated to utilize solar heat rather than the traditional wood burning method still widely used in China. For the Oriental cosmetics industry, all processes used in the production of the Campo extracts utilize non-fossil fuel sources and are in strict compliance with

traditional techniques enabling the products to qualify for the prestigious green label in Japan. The same extracts introduced for the major occidental markets of Europe and USA are modified only to meet the requirements of modern Western cosmetics formulators and are being made available as unpreserved extracts in either aqueous propylene glycol or 1,3-butylene glycol. As such they are expected to have a shelf life of 24 - 36 months.

These Oriental extracts have been developed to ensure the highest possible

concentration and consistent composition of specific active substances. As well is well known from modern phytotherapeutic research, particular effects of plant

remedies are only in a few cases attributable to one or two isolated active substances, for example ephedrine from Ephedra sinica. In most cases, it is a whole spectrum of active ingredients that has been found to act synergistically to produce the

documented therapeutic effects.

Campo Oriental plant extracts for cosmetics formulators are quality products produced from organically cultivated or custom wild-crafted herbs and plants, (harvested with full regard to the ecological balance). Although pesticides are not used, tests for them, radioactive elements and Heavy metals are carried out as a matter of course together with standard tests such as microbial examination. Identification of active ingredients is carried out by thin layer chromatography and quantitative analysis is carried out whenever possible.

Although inspired by Oriental tradition, young Asian baby-boomers such as those on the Campo staff also benefit from Western education. We have chosen to close this introduction in lighter vein. All Campo extracts, whether used in phytotherapy,

cosmetics or in other Oriental medicines are scheduled to be extracted in accordance with the lunar calendar. According to Oriental wisdom, the waxing moon抯

gravitational force exerts great influence on the planet Earth, mother nature and her wards; exampled by the spring tides experienced on oceans and seas around the World. Man, animals and plants are all basically composed of 75% water, similar in composition to the planet Earth, and are believed to behave similarly in accordance with regular monthly phases. Accordingly, the extraction menstrum(s) used in the extraction processes during these lunar cycles are optimally impregnated with

bio-compounds, these already known and verified, and those still unknown at present, at their optimum potency.

Perhaps a most appropriate closing statement here would be to quote from the famous Fu Chung scholar, Sir Joseph Needham, FRS.

"Nevertheless, one understands perfectly well that for 2000 years or more Oriental physicians, whose clinical insights were truly profound, used these concepts as trellis-works on which to hang their ideas about disease. The fact that terminology and the concepts are really medieval, whereas the concepts of modern Western medicine are essentially scientific, does not mean that we can look forward to an oecumenical medicine of the future, which I think will embody all clinical insights as well as the techniques characteristic of Chinese and Japanese medicine, while remaining firmly based on modern biological science. We believe: The plant in China extract , this natural active ingredients always withstands the bridges of open the east and western cosmetics, Beautify people's life.

The following is that the Chinese plant that can be used in cosmeceuticals.72See Tab 4 - 2:

4. The bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals 4.1 Function List of bioactive ingredients (功能化妆品活性成分的功能表现) In the American-Eu…

4. The bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals 4.1 Function List of bioactive ingredients (功能化妆品活性成分的功能表现) In the American-Eu…

4. The bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals 4.1 Function List of bioactive ingredients (功能化妆品活性成分的功能表现) In the American-Eu…

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